The Full Kebab Tradition
At Girne Niazi’s, we sit down for a long conversation with Director Ahmet Aydeniz and get firsthand information about the Niazi’s Full Kebab tradition, which I have been very curious about. In this interview, you will discover the Full Kebab tradition, which dates from 1949 to the present day…
Mr. Ahmet, could you tell us about the founding of Niazi’s restaurant and the Full Kebab?
The Full Kebab tradition at Niazi’s restaurant began in 1949, when my father (who was known as Mr. Niyazi) opened a place in Limassol, in the south of Cyprus, in what is now the Greek Cypriot side. It was part grocery store and part restaurant. In those days, the restaurant’s customers were his friends and people he knew from the neighbourhood. Before long, the Cyprus-style kebabs cooked on the restaurant’s grill—which opened only in the evenings—became popular and well known in their own right. The kebab selection, which at first consisted of just a few simple items, grew to include several varieties unique to Cyprus. The famous “Sheftali Kebab” we have all heard of is one of these varieties. Niyazi’s recipe for sheftalia dates back to those early days; its taste, like that of the other kebab varieties at Niazi’s, has still not changed, and it is always prepared and grilled in the same way.
I imagine Niazi’s played an important role in bringing “Sheftali Kebab” to restaurants?
Of course… Mr. Niyazi made a major contribution to making “Sheftali Kebab” a commercial dish. Before long, “Niyazi’s place” had become a popular restaurant in Limassol. In those years, the customers of “Niazi’s Restaurant” were no longer just friends and neighbours; they included all the local dignitaries of Limassol, and especially British military personnel and their families from the British bases.
As for the Full Kebab, how was it discovered?
The 1960s were among the world’s most colourful years, and the “Full Kebab” was discovered during that decade for a simple reason: necessity!! When it was impossible to fulfil all the customers’ orders, they sent everyone one of whatever happened to be cooking on the grill by the pavement, just to keep them quiet. Later, each customer who came in began ordering a mixed assortment like this of their own accord, and the famous Cypriot kebab menu, the “Full Kebab,” was born. In 1968, Niazi’s moved to a modern, larger location, again in Limassol. It continued the “Full Kebab” tradition there… Of course, there were also delicious mezze on the table to complement the flavour of the kebabs. It was a set menu of its own: first, cold mezze and salads, including yoghurt served in an earthenware bowl, were brought to the table. Then came several kinds of hot starters, including grilled Cypriot halloumi, followed by five varieties of delicious kebabs cooked on the grill.
I imagine the menu still has the same features today?
Yes… The Full Kebab served at Niazi’s restaurants today was created this way, and it has still not changed, in either its presentation or its taste. Perhaps it is the longest-running menu in the world… It has been the same since 1949; the only thing that is no longer included is kokkinelli wine. Customers now prefer a higher-quality wine with their Full Kebab.
How did things develop after 1974, when you moved to the North?
After the 1974 Peace Operation, when the entire Turkish population in the South moved to the North, the second turning point in Niazi’s history began. Niazi’s reopened on 1 January 1975 at its current location in Girne.
I imagine Mr. Niyazi is no longer involved with the restaurants. Around what time did you take over management?
My father handed over the management of Niazi’s to me toward the end of the 1980s.
How many restaurants do you have now?
There are currently four restaurants serving North Cyprus tourism, three of them under the Niazi’s kebab concept. These restaurants are certified to ISO 9001 and HACCP standards. Two of the kebab restaurants are in Girne and one is in Lefkosa, and all three restaurants offer selections from international cuisines on their menus. Even so, Niazi’s most popular menu is still the famous Full Kebab from those early days.
Would you consider opening a restaurant in the Greek Cypriot side in the event of a possible agreement?
I am not very sure that this is a possibility in the short term. I could consider something like that only if lasting peace can be achieved in the future. Before that, my dream and ideal is to open a Niazi’s-concept restaurant in Istanbul, London, or the capital of another country.
Finally, what would you like to say to those who will read this interview?
Niazi’s Full Kebab is a concept that comes from within Cyprus; at its heart are Cyprus’s traditions and its distinctive local flavours. We are proud to introduce this taste and serve it to all our local and international customers. We are even happier when we see the interest tourists visiting our country show in our restaurants and, consequently, in these flavours. I thank all our customers for their interest in the Full Kebab, a 59-year-old tradition.